The Barbary Coast Trail is roughly 4 miles in length and takes visitors through several of San Francisco’s colorful neighborhoods while exploring the city’s past and present. Here are 10 helpful tips for saving time and money on the trail:
1. Take a Map.
An excellent map is the “Walker’s Map of San Francisco,†by Pease Press Maps. It can be purchased at many bookstores and vendors in San Francisco. The map shows the Barbary Coast Trail route as well as many other great walking trails in the city. I found the map to be very durable even after heavy use and multiple trips.
2. Read Before You Go.
A good reference book is “Walking San Francisco on the Barbary Coast Trail,†by Daniel Bacon. It approaches the trail with a good deal of back-story. My copy of the book was published a few years ago but it is still a great reference. Read up a little before you go so you can identify where you want to spend more of your time.
3. Where to Find Bathrooms?
If you are starting your trip near the Old Mint in the Downtown area you can make a pit stop at the Westfield Shopping Center at the corner of Market and 5th near the Powell Bart station exit. Along the trail, you can always find facilities at storefronts, restaurants or small eateries. Many of the facilities at restaurants and eateries are for ‘customers only’ so you might need to buy something or at least offer a couple of dollars as a donation.
4. Take the Cable Car Like a Local.
San Francisco is known for cable cars. People queue up near a cable car turnaround waiting for their opportunity to experience riding on one. During weekends and especially in the summer these lines can be very long. Ride on the cable car early in the morning or late in the day to experience fewer people. The cable car system is part of the city’s public transit service and (if a cable car has room) will make stops along the route to pick up passengers. It is possible to walk a couple of blocks up from the cable car turnaround to one of these stops and flag down a passing cable car. Where you sit on the cable car is important: as you board sit in a seat in the open section, or if you like a bit of fun – stand on the outside railing. Inside the cabin, it can be a bit claustrophobic and you miss some the colorful antics and comments of the conductor. It is also a treat to stand on the back of the cable car.
5. Take Bart & CalTrain into the City.
Driving in downtown San Francisco can be very stressful and parking very expensive. If possible take the BART (the Bay Area Rapid Transit) system. It is a great way to get around much of the Bay Area and takes you directly to the beginning of the trail near the Powell Street Station. If you’re driving from the south (up to the peninsula) park at the Colma Bart Station. It is a clean place to park and does not have the grungy feel as the neighboring Daly City station. Parking at the Colma station on the weekend is free and access onto the freeway is close. Always check online for changes to parking fees routes, etc. The CalTrain runs along the western peninsula from San Jose to San Francisco. It is a good way to get into the city but you will have to the take a surface tram or walk, once you arrive in San Francisco to get to the start of the trail on Market Street. Walking the mile or so up to Market is much safer than it used to be and is ok in the daytime. The area has been greatly gentrified over the years and walking during the day has never been an issue for me.
6. Dude, Spare Some Money?
Panhandling does exist in San Francisco and you might be asked for money. Aggressive panhandling (when someone is belligerent and gets in your face) is not as common as it once was in San Francisco, though it can still occur. You are more likely to have your money ‘taken’ at a cheesy t-shirt stand in a touristy area than by a criminal. Be prepared to see a homeless person shuffling down the street or someone crashed out in a doorway. As with any big city, crime exists but I have never had any issues while walking on the Barbary Coast Trail.
7. Take Supplies: Water, Munchies, and Some Small Bills.
Bring some water, munchies and some extra cash with you. You will want to stay well hydrated and keep your energy up. Even after a short time, the best of us can become grumpy when we are hungry. Keep a couple of one-dollar bills in a buttoned pocket or somewhere that you can easily access as emergency cash, like if you need to use the bathroom facilities and need to offer some cash to a store owner. Several banks are along the trail’s route, but fees associated with ATMs can be expensive.
8. Shop Around Before You Eat.
SF has some excellent places to eat; but you still want to choose wisely, the problem isn’t finding a good place to eat, it is trying to figure out which of the many good places to eat. Along the trail are restaurants to satisfy every taste.
9. Avoid the Crowds.
San Francisco is a popular place for tourists. The mild climate makes the city a destination year round but summer is the busiest time. You will always find crowds but if you can visit mid-week or during the wintertime, you can have many of the attractions to yourself. I actually enjoy exploring in the wintertime. The cooler weather keeps most people away and the clear skies after a rain make for the most stunning views.
10. A Day Trip Suggestion.
The Barbary Coast Trail can be ‘walked’ quickly in as little as 4 hours and can really be explored if you have several days. However, if you have just one day I suggest starting your exploration early in the morning; being on the trail by 8 a.m. is ok. This allows for poking around different stores, people watching and enjoying the sights. You can easily spend several hours walking through Union Square and Chinatown. Enjoy some tea in Chinatown and continue past Portsmouth Square to the Wells Fargo History Museum to learn about the Gold Rush (note: only open during weekdays). Continue past the Trans America Pyramid along the old coastline and the Old Barbary Coast area. Around lunchtime, grab a sandwich at Molinari’s deli in the North Beach neighborhood. If you need a coffee, the nearby Caffe Trieste, offers some good coffee and sells some lunch items as well. Work off lunch by climbing up to Coit Tower and enjoying the views of San Francisco. As you walk down to the waterfront check out the sea lions at Pier 39. A lot of places at Pier 39 will be selling bread bowls filled with Clam Crowder – avoid this temptation and hold out for some crab later that day. As you leave the sea lions you might be tempted to catch a ferry and visit Alcatraz Island – I would suggest making this a separate trip. Continue down the waterfront to the World War II vessels and check these out. Just beyond this area along the trail are vendors who sell Dungeness Crab – grab a bite to eat at one of these vendors. Check out the Hyde Street Pier and climb aboard the myriad of old-time ships. If you need a snack the Ghirardelli Chocolate Factory is nearby, but one dessert can easily feed several people and you might have to wait sometime for a table. The Hyde Street Cable Car turnaround is a few feet away and the line for a ticket has generally shortened by the end of the day. The Cable Car ride back to Powell Street is about 15 to 20 minutes and will take you back past Union Square to the starting point.
Read more about the Barbary Coast Trail:
Part 6: Northern Waterfront
Part 5: North Beach
Part 4: Barbary Coast
Part 3: Gold Rush City
Part 2: Chinatown
Part 1: Downtown
thousands of onlookers each year. We enjoyed watching their rest as well as antics including two juveniles playing tag; one wound dive into the water quickly followed by a friend, a second later the first would bolt from the water landing on the pier. The friend would join him and the two would playfully wrestle then chasing each other again. After having our fill of sea lions we walked down the Embarcadero passing colorful and sometimes flamboyant street vendors who sought the attention and tips of admiring tourists. In the distance, we could see our next stop, the USS Pampanito.
The USS Pampanito is a submarine that served during World War II and today welcomes visitors. During the War the Pampanito patrolled the South China Sea sinking six enemy ships and damaging four others. Sometimes her crew was subjected to long hours, depth charges and near misses by torpedoes. Visitors have an option of using a handheld device to help guide them through the sub and learn more about this vessel’s story. I was fascinated to see a tiny galley that was roughly 8 feet long and 5 feet wide, it served 4 meals a day for up to 80 crew members!
imagine how great the smell must have been more than sixty-five years ago.
about the Pampanito during the war. They were warm natured and jovial about talked affectionately about their service, but also with great respect. It was easy for them to laugh one minute, then have a strong emotional and reverent tone in their voice the next. I do not know if any of these men still return, but the presence of those who served aboard the USS Pampanito during the war still lingers here.
ships. Years later she was chosen for restoration and sailed away from the mothball fleet under her own power. Hundreds of volunteers worked tirelessly and returned the O’Brien to her former glory. In 1994 the restored Liberty Ship sailed under the Golden Gate Bridge and returned to the Normandy beaches of France to commemorate the 50th Anniversary of D-Day. The O’Brien is only two of such Liberty Ships that remain.
I enjoyed the labyrinth of walkways and ladders in the four-story-tall engine room. The kids loved patrolling the sky and defending the ship against imaginary aircraft with the revolving anti-aircraft guns on deck. These giant guns still pivoted on their turrets, powered by hand cranks and the grit and energy of youthful kids. At the back of the O’Brien, we found an inactive artillery shell that must have weighed 80 pounds and was about 30 inches long. The best part of our visit was the lack of crowds.
The next stop was the Balclutha, a square-rigged sailing ship (also shown at the top of this article) that evokes a time when white sails powered giant wooden ships over the waves. The interior has been restored and offers a glimpse into the cargo and life of the time. It also introduces you to the cramped crew quarters and the small, but luxurious Captain’s quarters. While on the main deck look for an empty cage as it is the beginning of a scavenger hunt of sorts. One sailor’s old journal talked about pigs getting loose during a voyage and how difficult it was to locate and capture them. Other historic ships are moored in the area and offer other opportunities to explore some great vessels.
such a poem would not raise eyebrows, but in the 1950s this short literary work was ground zero for the national debate on censorship. You can find copies of Howl and an interesting book titled, “Howl on Trial: The Battle for Free Expression,” upstairs in the small and quiet poetry room. Also on the shelves are a number of books from Beat poets and writers. At other levels of the bookstore, you can find titles that both challenge and expand the perceptions of the reader. Kids will enjoy the wonderful cave-like section of the basement that houses the children’s books.
quality of service, friendly staff, and excellent sandwiches. Several sidewalk tables and chairs are just outside, you can sit and enjoy some great food while you people watch. We finished half a sandwich and packed the rest for later. Now, coffee was needed, but where to go? Unlike other places in the city, in North Beach you will not find the typical cookie-cutter coffee stores; the community fiercely defends local businesses and does not welcome national chains. This was fine because I wanted a genuine cup of coffee with character and knew just where to look. In two minutes we stood outside a small coffee house called Caffe Trieste.
aromatic cup of cocoa quickly joined the coffees. In the back of the coffee shop, my family sat among cramped tables that are inlaid like an old Italian mosaic. Some of the tables were very colorful and our cups gently rocked from the slight imbalance of the tiles. My daughter dug into the whipped cream that floated on her cocoa and she offered some to both of us – the whipped cream was real and very delicious. A juke-box filled with CDs played several selections that included: opera, jazz, folk, blues and the deep sensuous voice of a woman singing in Italian. A couple sat next to us and conversed. As they finished their coffee one glanced at the time – in shock stated to her friend they were late. They both grabbed their jackets and left. The experience was comforting, unpretentious, but mostly the experience was like the coffee …genuine.
The walk to Coit Tower offers great views of the North Beach, but it is steep. One hill was so steep that grooves had been etched into the sidewalk to allow for foot traction. Autos that parked on the street could only park perpendicular to the curb, this was to reduce the risk of an out of control car on the steep grade. Climbing the steep terrain you appreciate the 495 feet to the summit of Telegraph Hill. Some folks drive to the top and during busy times of the year making the trip by car or tour bus can be a real headache. If you can, make the walk.
We entered the building and were greeted with colorful murals along the walls of the lobby. The artists were influenced by the times of the Great Depression and the artwork reflects this time. The murals can be viewed for free, but you need to pay a small amount to visit the top. We made a quick ride to the top of the tower and were greeted with the most inspiring view; our eyes enjoyed a singular and delicious vista of many miles that included the immense San Francisco Bay and the sights of Alcatraz Island, the majestic Golden Gate Bridge, the rugged Marin Headlands, Angel Island State Park and the waterfront – the next section of our trip along the Barbary Coast Trail.
After our visit to Coit Tower we made several detours exploring the fun, but strenuous, Filbert and Greenwich stairs. This allowed us to get our heart rate up and work off that sandwich and coffee. These stairways curve along the steep eastern face of Telegraph Hill to secluded gardens, small walkways, old Victorian and art-deco buildings. After these side trips, we walked down the western side of the hill to rejoin our original path.
At the end of the street is the beautifully decorated Hotaling building. It was built in 1866 and for a good many years “housed the largest liquor repository on the west coast.†The thirsty saloons of the Barbary Coast demanded whiskey and this warehouse gladly provided it. In 1906 San Francisco was devastated by a large earthquake and a firestorm burned much of the city. All looked lost for this part of San Francisco, but just before the wall of fire reached the Hotaling building the wind shifted and the warehouse of whiskey was saved. Some in the country suggested San Francisco was being punished by divine retribution for its sinful nature; in response, the following was penned –
Turning onto Jackson St. I returned to the path of the Barbary Coast Trail. A minute later, at the corner of Montgomery Street, I looked at an unassuming building of granite and brick. Here was the old Bank of Lucas and Turner and Company. It was constructed in 1853-54 and had an unusual first manager named Mr. Sherman. Mr. Sherman already had a history in California but it was the time he served in the Union Army during America’s Civil War that would immortalize him. Mr. Sherman would later be known for the ‘March to the Sea’ and oversee the burning of Atlanta, Georgia. History knows the man who worked here as General William Tecumseh Sherman.
Leaving Portsmouth Square I headed south just a few steps to Commercial Street. Commercial Street had a long history of business. One of the early establishments here was a branch of the Hudson Bay Company, a fur trading business that was involved in exploring North America during the 1600-1700s as well as California in the early 1800s. While walking down the street look for a little green space; this small area marks the location of Emperor Norton’s Imperial Palace, an eccentric character endowed with the title, “Emperor of the United States and Protector of Mexico†who for decades charmed locals. He was so beloved by the city that it is reported his funeral was the largest in San Francisco’s history. While here also check out the Chinese Historical Society and the Pacific Heritage Museum. The site of the Pacific Heritage Museum was the original location of the US Branch Mint. It was here that gold from the Mother Load was housed from 1855 until 1874.
shoreline located 3/4 of a mile from where it is today? To find out walk to the Wells Fargo Bank History Room – a treasure box for those curious about America’s Gold Rush history.
Upstairs you can sit in the body of a stagecoach and listen to an account from a rider who traveled by stage to the west coast. Just listening to this audio makes a person very appreciative of our modern conveniences. Also upstairs are a number of letters and photos from the mid to late 1800s. I personally enjoyed a drawing called the “Birds Eye View of San Francisco†(shown with the abandoned ships in the foreground) which illustrates the hundreds of ‘ghost ships’ that choked the waterfront of San Francisco. Here is why the shoreline is not where it used to be; as the ships anchored in the bay hundreds were abandoned as sailors jumped-ship and traveled to the gold fields in search of fortune. As the number of ships grew this ‘graveyard of ships’ became new real estate and created the foundations of buildings, wharves, and streets as the city grew to fill in the shallow bay, entombing the ships that brought so many to these shores.
Leaving the museum and walking just a few short blocks back on Montgomery, past Commercial Street to the corner of Clay Street is the Transamerica Pyramid Building. Make a quick walk up Clay Street to view a plaque marking the final station of the Pony Express.
At the Transamerica Pyramid Building look up and appreciate the unique architecture of this 48 stories tall skyscraper. It’s hard to imagine that during the Gold Rush, as the bay lands were filled, a building called the Montgomery Block once stood here. It was reportedly a hangout for famous names as Mark Twain, Jack London, and Robert Louis Stevenson. One story about this place tells how Mr. Clemens (Mark Twain) met a hulky and red-headed firefighter who intrigued him and the two became friends. The firefighter was named Tom Sawyer.
On the eastern side of the skyscraper is a lush area known as the Transamerica Redwood Park. It is a pleasant oasis of trees, fountains, and greenery in the middle of the city. Enjoy a sculpture of six children running and playing called, “Puddle Jumpers.” The sculpture’s message about jumping is reinforced by nearby frogs which are in honor of Mark Twain’s book, “The Jumping Frog of Calaveras County.”
The Barbary Coast Trail is roughly 4 miles in length and takes visitors through several of San Francisco’s colorful neighborhoods while exploring the city’s past and present.
At California Avenue stands two pagoda-topped iconic buildings known as Sing Fat and Sing Chong. These buildings were constructed after the earthquake and firestorm of 1906. They were built to reaffirm the Chinese presence in the area after the tragedy.
Entering Waverly Place today you would not guess it once had a very lurid past with madams, sing-song girls, opium dens, and even open warfare between various criminal groups. Today, the street is adorned with colorful balconies, residences, and businesses. A number of people passed me carrying bags of grocery bags filled with vegetables. A short way down the street were the unmistakable sounds of rhythmic drumming coming from the rooftop of a building. This was the Tin How Temple, the oldest Taoist Chinese temple on the west coast. The drumming was empowering; the large drums beat in unison, changing rhythms as one single unit, the low deep vibrations could be felt in your chest.
phones, trucks honking to get by on the street and storeowners coming out of their shops to talk with customers who pawed through boxes that lined the storefronts. Restaurants in the area had large and colorful pictures of food in their doorways and one store had cooked ducks hung in the window. A woman at the street corner shoved a lunch coupon in my hand and pointed to a nearby restaurant. The images on the coupon looked tasty but I had to continue onwards.
Arriving at Portsmouth Square a large crowd filled the tiny park and there was little room to pass. A speaker was passionately advocating, at times in English and Chinese, for democracy and the freedom of religious practices in mainland China. The gathering was held under the gaze of the Goddess of Democracy located in the Portsmouth Square, a smaller replica of the 33ft (10m) tall statue that was created during the Tiananmen Square protests of 1989.
Today, the great doors of the Old Mint are closed, but the Mint is undergoing a renaissance of sorts and may soon reopen as a premier cultural and historic center for the city.
Just ahead is Union Square, an open area consisting of several acres. On this sunny day, the square was alive with an art fair featuring colorful paintings and etchings. Everyone was friendly and the artists were eager to talk with prospective customers. In just a short time I heard half-a-dozen different languages being spoken by tourists, it just reinforced that San Francisco is a world-class destination for people from all over the world. At the plaza’s periphery was an outdoor café serving coffee and sandwiches. The cafe patrons were enjoying the sun, working on laptops, reading, or just having a good conversation with friends. Some young kids were playing and jumping off a small ledge into the arms of their parents. Among the visitors was a young man playing a large wooden flute. After a few minutes, he was approached by several young travelers who appeared to be from Europe, he showed them the flute and later showed them several Tai Chi movements. The square was restful and energetic at the same time.
On the western edge of Union Square a large American flag waves over the doorway of the Westin St. Francis Hotel. The hotel was built in 1904 and has been graced by celebrities and the powerful ever since. In 1975 there was a failed assassination attempt of President Ford. There is still a small bullet hole above the hotel’s door.
The centerpiece of the plaza is a large white Corinthian column that rises 97 feet over the square. This is the Dewey Monument; atop the column is the statue of a tall woman holding a raised trident and a wreath, symbolizing the people the monument honors. This monument commemorates both Admiral Dewey’s victory in the Battle of Manila Bay in 1898 during the Spanish and American War and to President McKinley who was killed in office by an assassin in 1901. The woman who modeled for the statue, Alma de Bretteville, has a rags-to-riches story of her own; by being born into poverty and later becoming one of the wealthiest women in the state. Some of her later accomplishment include building the Palace Of the Legion of Honor (a fine art museum in San Francisco) and being instrumental in the creation of the National Maritime Museum at Aquatic Park, which is a destination on the Barbary Coast Trail.
Today, Maiden Lane is a clean well-lit street with cafes and outdoor seating. However, in the late 1800s and early 1900s, the maiden in Maiden Lane referred to the numerous prostitutes who “naked to the waist hung out of the narrow wooden shanties” in an attempt to entice patrons inside.